Monday, December 16, 2019
A tour around in Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka is rapidly expanding its infrastructure and public transport
services, making independent travel easier over time.As of now, however,
many roads are still thoroughly potholed and at times terrifying due to
local driving traditions. Together with occasional massive crowds
(especially on holidays), often lacking luggage space and occasional
harassment of women travelling alone, buses may not seem like the most
appealing way of travel for some.Yet, they offer great opportunities for
interaction with locals, are cheap, plentiful and come in different qualities.
If you’re on a very tight budget, the standard public buses (CTB) lack aircon and are regularly pretty overcrowded, but they’re dirt-cheap for
western standards and run everywhere all the time.Private buses charge
about double but are still cheap and often do have air-conditioning and
often guaranteed seats.Your best bet is to inform upon arrival in a
destination about your way out, and if possible secure a seat already. In
all cases, arrive early and preferably travel light. If you’re carrying a lot of
luggage, you might have to purchase a seat for your backpack if you don’t
want to keep it on you lap or under your feet.
Trains offer good alternatives when they are available, and the standard
trains are only slightly more expensive than the private buses, if at all.
One of the advantages is that 1st and 2nd class train tickets can be
reserved several days in advance.Sri Lankan Railways has a useful
website in English. There are also more expensive private trains with 1st
class wagons and good service to some of the destinations. These
obviously come at higher prices, but are still a reasonable and convenient
option for travellers on a mid-range or higher budget, with a trip from
Colombo to Kandy costing around LKR1700/USD13.
Of course, if you’re not on a budget and especially if you’re pressed for
time,renting a car with driver for the whole or part of the route can offer a
convenient way to follow this itinerary, and will in some cases allow to see
two sites on one day. Daily rates vary between LKR5000 and 10,000 per
day excl. fuel, depending on the kind of car you want and whether you
book via a hotel or travel agency that will take a commission.
Three-wheeler
The most common mode of transport in Sri Lanka is via a three-wheeled
automobile appropriately referred to as a three-wheeler (Tri-Shaw).Also
known as Tuk-Tuks from the noise of their motors. These operate in a
manner similar to taxis, and in many situations are a convenient and
highly cost-efficient way to get around.Safety is a concern however, as
none of them have seat belts and they are open to the sides. Threewheelers are ubiquitous in Sri Lanka. On any given street, you’ll hardly
have to wait more than a couple of minutes without one going by that
you can wave down. If you’re travelling with luggage, there are slightly
larger three-wheelers with more space for your bags that you can look for.
While it may be the most novel way to get around, it may not be the most
cost efficient in every situation.Public transport is cheaper by far, and
most Three-wheel drivers tend to over-price foreigners, so never agree to
the first estimate. The best price you can get is about Rs. 50 – 75 per km
for short journeys and about Rs. 30 – 50 for long journeys ( more than 15
km). If you do come across a metered Tri-Shaw make sure the meter is
switched on. Taxis are slightly more expensive but surely a lot safer.
Having said that, you probably have not experienced everything Sri Lanka
has to offer until you travel in one.
By car
Rented cars usually turn out cheaper than three-wheelers, and are less
prone to road accidents—and are recommended by most hotels. Rented
cars often come with their own drivers. Often the automobile itself is free,
whereas the driver will charge a fee for his services.Some drivers/guides
are government-licensed; some are extremely knowledgeable and multilingual, specializing in historical and cultural knowledge, and
environment/natural history for your visits to the ancient sites and the
natural reserves. It is not recommended to try driving yourself, unless you
are very adventurous, as the driving style is very different from wealthier
countries.
Tour operators
Tour operators are happy to get you a van and a driver who will take you
all over the island but beware, the roads are bumpy and slow. If you book
off-the-cuff when you arrive, ask to be shown on a map where you are
going before agreeing to any ‘tour’ of the island and research before you
arrive so that you have a clear idea of where you might like to travel.
Senseless backtracking to lengthen the trip and increase the cost is a
real danger, as is a driver’s wish to take you on unwanted shopping
expeditions in an effort to gain commission. Travel websites specialising in
Sri Lanka are easily found and have greatly increased the choice that is
readily available to independent travellers seeking tailor-made tours. The
best of them will produce clearly-stated travel itineraries and some are
flexible enough to make late changes to itineraries.Ask to see their
booking conditions and anti-fraud policies.
Taxi companies
Taxis are a better way of getting around Colombo than three wheelers
as, due to the metering, they often turn out to be cheaper. Rates are
about USD0.55 and they have full day packages (approx 8 hours and
80km) for around USD 40. They will also take you outstation for around
USD 0.30-0.35 per km with no waiting charges.You can also set up your
own itenary and travel around that way as opposed to whatever the tour
operator tells you.
By bus
For those on a budget buses are everywhere. They’re sometimes
crowded and uncomfortable, but they get you around for almost nothing;
it costs about a dollar to get half-way across the island. If you’re planning
on splashing out, AC buses run most routes for twice the price, which
offer air-conditioning and a guaranteed seat. However, they’re still
uncomfortable.Bus stations are confusing places, especially the big ones,
but almost everyone will be delighted to practice their English and help
you.Also, when travelling by bus, it is local etiquette in most buses to
provide or give up the very front passenger seats to members of the
clergy such as monks or priests if they are present.
By train
Sri Lanka has an extensive railway system serving all major towns and
cities in the island except for the North. The Railway system in Sri Lanka
is very picturesque when entering the hill country because of the winding
tracks along the mountains especially on the Badullu-Nanu Oya line.
Make sure, if you can, to sit on the right side of the train, as it offers the
better view. Travel by train is itself a journey to remember, be it travelling
to Central Sri Lanka or travelling on the coastal line is just amazing.Highly
recommended to travel by train if you are travelling outside Colombo. The
Hill train to Badulla is an amazing journey.Preferably choose the express
trains, and try to get a reservation beforehand, if you can. There are
special Observation cars for tourists that like to take in the scenery.
Trains can be slower than buses, depending if you are on a line that offers
an express train or not, but more comfortable and even less expensive
than buses.
You can look up train schedules on the official site:
4 or using one of the
two Android Apps available:
5 6
.Be advised, however, that these will only
give you results for direct connections between stations.
There are three classes of railway cars, although 1st and 2nd class are
only available on some Intercity and Express trains. Travelling 3rd class is
not as bad as it may sound. Often the difference between 3rd and 2nd
class is only a missing armrest between seats.
Trains are sometimes crowded, especially in the morning and late
afternoon.Also, observation car seats for the lines popular with tourists
(like the Colombo-Kandy line) are often booked out several days in
advance in the high season.So whenever possible you should get a
reservation beforehand: see
7 and
8
for more information
Privately owned train services such as Exporail and Rajadhani Express
operates air-conditioned and serviced first-class railway cars to major
destinations daily. While this is costlier than travelling by air-conditioned
bus, it is much cheaper than hiring a car and offers facilities such as online
reservations, friendly on-board services, spacious seating, on-board meals
and wireless internet.
By plane
Sri Lankan Airlines operates small Seaplane service to destinations such
as Nuwara Eliya,Kandy, Galle and many more locations. This is perfect for
photography trips because you can get a bird’s eye view of the island and
takes less time to get to a destination than using the road.Also the
seaplanes land on picturesque lakes and tanks around the island.
Aero Lanka operates domestic flights between Colombo City Airport –
Ratmalana, Jaffna and Trincomalee
Cinnamon Air (air taxi), No 11,York Street, Colombo 01, +94 11 2
475 451.A Domestic Airline offering daily scheduled flights from
Bandaranaike International Airport to Sri Lanka’s most popular
destinations
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